Author Topic: D-Pad and buttons sticking issue (Read 130228 times)

AztroZombie · « **on:** June 18, 2013, 06:08:17 pm »

I don't want to hijack an existing topic for this, and I also believe this issue deserves its own thread. Does anyone have a solution for the sticking d-pad/buttons yet? Seems like a pretty consistent problem and I'd like to get this sorted asap without having to send it back to Justin and wait for a fix/replacement.

zear · « **Reply #1 on:** June 18, 2013, 06:18:51 pm »

It looks like it's the paint on the buttons/d-pad that made them too thick to fit in the slots perfectly and it is causing the friction. An extensive use of the d-pad/buttons for few hours should remove the excessive paint.

AztroZombie · « **Reply #2 on:** June 18, 2013, 06:26:08 pm »

Quote from: zear on June 18, 2013, 06:18:51 pm

It looks like it's the paint on the buttons/d-pad that made them too thick to fit in the slots perfectly and it is causing the friction. An extensive use of the d-pad/buttons for few hours should remove the excessive paint.

Not on mine yet, I've worked the d-pad for a few hours. Has anyone tried sanding/scraping/trimming, or opening the unit?

Atlantis_Risen · « **Reply #3 on:** June 18, 2013, 07:04:18 pm »

I suppose this is a reason to be glad I wasn't an early adopter. I hope these hardware issues get hammered out before the production units start rolling out, I'm looking forward to getting one.

AztroZombie · « **Reply #4 on:** June 18, 2013, 07:06:57 pm »

Quote from: Atlantis_Risen on June 18, 2013, 07:04:18 pm

I suppose this is a reason to be glad I wasn't an early adopter. I hope these hardware issues get hammered out before the production units start rolling out, I'm looking forward to getting one.

To be fair, it doesn't make the device unplayable, it's more just annoying... There HAS to be a simple fix. Oh and I'd rather have a sticky d-pad than nothing

relay01 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 18, 2013, 07:11:06 pm »

the user "ithought" mentioned in the other thread that he filed away at the d-pad and fixed the issue, however he didn't give any further details as to whether he took the thing apart to do it or what...

Someone called this issue the "down arrow of death" but I feel it's more appropriate to call it the "down arrow of severe annoyance after waiting so long to get a unit only to have a glaring flaw"... perhaps less catchy.

AztroZombie · « **Reply #6 on:** June 18, 2013, 07:19:18 pm »

Quote from: relay01 on June 18, 2013, 07:11:06 pm

the user "ithought" mentioned in the other thread that he filed away at the d-pad and fixed the issue, however he didn't give any further details as to whether he took the thing apart to do it or what...

Someone called this issue the "down arrow of death" but I feel it's more appropriate to call it the "down arrow of severe annoyance after waiting so long to get a unit only to have a glaring flaw"... perhaps less catchy.

LOL, the down arrow of death is a bit extreme! I'm SUPER happy with the Zero so far. Like you said, it's just a little annoying that's all, and I'd like to fix it. Filing down the plastic would probably result in plastic shavings inside the unit itself, which I doubt would be good for it. We need more ideas $:-\$

Atlantis_Risen · « **Reply #7 on:** June 18, 2013, 07:26:22 pm »

Is it hard to pop the case open? Are there security screws or anything?

Maybe you could just shave the plastic slightly with an xacto knife. It might be easier than sanding.

AztroZombie · « **Reply #8 on:** June 18, 2013, 08:22:17 pm »

Quote from: Atlantis_Risen on June 18, 2013, 07:26:22 pm

Is it hard to pop the case open? Are there security screws or anything?

Maybe you could just shave the plastic slightly with an xacto knife. It might be easier than sanding.

There's 4 screws, Justin said that opening the case could cause alignment issues with some of the components.

zear · « **Reply #9 on:** June 18, 2013, 09:00:34 pm »

I have opened the back of the case (to access the internal microSD) several times. While it's super simple to open it (just 4 screws hidden behind the rubber "legs"), there are three things to watch for:
1) At least in the prototype units, the battery cable is short enough to accidently stretch and break it if you open the case rapidly
2) When closing the case, extra attention needs to be put into the proper placement of the shoulder buttons, otherwise they might be misplaced and either sink or stick
3) When screwing the case back, be sure not to screw the top row screws too hard, it will cause friction in the shoulder buttons and prevent them from retracting

AztroZombie · « **Reply #10 on:** June 18, 2013, 09:19:26 pm »

Quote from: zear on June 18, 2013, 09:00:34 pm

I have opened the back of the case (to access the internal microSD) several times. While it's super simple to open it (just 4 screws hidden behind the rubber "legs"), there are three things to watch for:
1) At least in the prototype units, the battery cable is short enough to accidently stretch and break it if you open the case rapidly
2) When closing the case, extra attention needs to be put into the proper placement of the shoulder buttons, otherwise they might be misplaced and either sink or stick
3) When screwing the case back, be sure not to screw the top row screws too hard, it will cause friction in the shoulder buttons and prevent them from retracting

I opened mine... Does the battery detach from the back of the case? I opened it about 1/4 of an inch saw the short wire and then closed it.

zear · « **Reply #11 on:** June 18, 2013, 09:50:14 pm »

Quote from: AztroZombie on June 18, 2013, 09:19:26 pm

Does the battery detach from the back of the case? I opened it about 1/4 of an inch saw the short wire and then closed it.

No, it's glued to the back of the case. However you can simply open the case about half the way and then rest the back side against something so it doesn't open the rest of the way.

AztroZombie · « **Reply #12 on:** June 19, 2013, 12:20:04 am »

Quote from: zear on June 18, 2013, 09:50:14 pm

Quote from: AztroZombie on June 18, 2013, 09:19:26 pm
Does the battery detach from the back of the case? I opened it about 1/4 of an inch saw the short wire and then closed it.
No, it's glued to the back of the case. However you can simply open the case about half the way and then rest the back side against something so it doesn't open the rest of the way.

Then what? Does the front of the case just pop off, or is the board attached to it from the inside with screws? When I open mine I'll take pictures, but I'd like to know as much as I can before the surgery.

zear · « **Reply #13 on:** June 19, 2013, 01:19:41 am »

I have never opened the front of the case, as I never needed to.

boelze · « **Reply #14 on:** June 19, 2013, 01:54:59 am »

I think qbertaddict is the person you should contact. According to his youtube videos he swapped the default dpad and buttons on his black se with white ones. If he did that by himself he sure would know how to strip down the front panel.

ithought · « **Reply #15 on:** June 19, 2013, 02:50:35 am »

yes i opened the gcw.

this is how i opened it.
(do at your own risk, and be careful. im not good at giving instructions)

pop off the nub stick (its pretty tight).
unscrew the four screws on the back covered by rubber pads.
the back case can come loose now, but has the battery and rumble motor attached to it. the wires from the battery and motor connect to one side of the motherboard, so you can lift one side of the back case and move it to the side. like this __| . (just hold it in place for now)
then theres more screws on the motherboard that you have to unscrew.
(almost forgot) remove the screen connector thing in the middle of the motherboard by lifting the grey tab thing.
then there is the power switch and hdmi port that you have to get loose. i got it out by forcing the casing out alittle.

and you should be able to take the motherboard out now with a little maneuvering.

and these are the parts i filed down. (the d-pad it white under the paint)
using Veritas image

alyinsanfran · « **Reply #16 on:** June 19, 2013, 03:08:17 am »

And this fixed the problem(s) completely IThought? You said in a previous post that the extra pressure needed to register a press was related to the sticky DPad. So your fix here cured both problems?

ithought · « **Reply #17 on:** June 19, 2013, 03:15:41 am »

yes when looking at my d-pad, the buttons registered at the same distance pressed down, but the down button would get stuck before it got there, thus needing more pressure. atleast thats what was happening with mine.

alyinsanfran · « **Reply #18 on:** June 19, 2013, 04:13:12 am »

Well that's good news then. Perhaps if others follow your lead and are successful a sticky thread might be in order. It would be great if the community could broadcast a step-by-step solution to help out those afflicted.

AztroZombie · « **Reply #19 on:** June 19, 2013, 04:23:14 am »

opened it up, i started to scrape the paint away on the d-pad and it's white underneath. so i decided to scrape off only the edges and create a custom d-pad, should look ok when I'm done...

Author Topic: D-Pad and buttons sticking issue (Read 130228 times)

AztroZombie (OP)

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